***WINTER STORAGE***


 written by: Bruce Kettunen
1957-3200
Mt. Iron, MN


1. Purge the tank of oxygenated gasoline. This stuff has a shelf
life of only weeks. In Minnesota we can get non-oxygenated 91 octane
premium at some stations for collector cars, snowmobiles, lawn mowers,
etc. Holiday and Amoco seem the most likely to have this.

2. Fill the tank full and use Sta-Bil or some other gasoline stabilizer
in the proper dosage.

3. Change the oil and filter and lube the chassis as close as possible
to putting the truck to bed. Some people also recommend changing
the tranny and differential fluid for long term storage to make sure
there is no water in there.

4. Check the anti-freeze for enough strength.

5. Wash and wax the truck and clean out the interior.

6. Pump the tires up so they don't develop a flat spot. For long
term storage, put the truck up on jacks to get the weight off the
tires and springs.

7. Find a dry covered place with a floor. Storing over bare ground
or, worse yet. grass is surprisingly hard on the underbody.

8. Some people recommend putting oil like Marvel Mystery Oil
down the carb throat and running the carburetor dry for long term
storage. I've never had trouble with this.

9. Remove the battery. Keep it on a wood shelf, not on a concrete
floor. Cold won't hurt it, but condensation moisture will. Trickle
charge it from time to time over the winter.

10. I have no comments on covers. I don't use one for a winter,
but others do. Others even go to the expense of a plastic air supported
"bubble" with a desiccant inside to keep things dry. My truck doesn't
rate that treatment.